Keeping a Pet Spider

Spiders might not be for everyone, but for some people they are fascinating and ingenious little creatures that make unique pets. There are over 38,000 spider species in the world, and climbing, however pet enthusiasts only commonly keep a tiny percentage of these. Most commonly kept are the tarantula species as they are large, have little venom and are fairly easy to care for. In this article you will learn the basics for keeping such a fascinating pet.

Before you buy

Make sure your motives for buying a pet tarantula are right. Some people buy them to look cool or even brave. This won’t be good for you or your spider in the long run! Also make sure you understand they aren’t companionable pets and they are more geared to being observed rather than ‘played’ with. Most tarantula species can live for around 5 years, some for much more, so put a lot of thought into if you really want one. Reading this through may help you decide!

If you decided you really do want an eight legged friend, research! You should look at what sort of tarantula you want and what its specific needs are. Some good starter species include;

The Pink Toe
Mexican Red Knee
Chilean Rose
Curly Hair

You should also be aware that if you have asthma or an allergic reaction to insect bites extreme caution and thought should be given to your decision. Tarantulas have a bite equal to a bee sting and can flick irritating hairs at potential threats. While the above species are fairly docile, they will still defend themselves if they feel threatened.

Housing a pet Tarantula

Most spiders need very small amounts of space. Most spider keepers use plastic ‘faunariums’ which are small plastic tubs with ventilated plastic roofing. These are more than adequate. Of course you can buy starter kits that have glass tanks and mesh tops or you can buy glass vivariums with mesh tops for the same purpose. It all depends on preference and budget!

Keep in mind the dimensions, species such as the Pink Toe are arboreal, meaning a taller space, rather than floor space is preferred. Others, such as the Red Knee, prefer floorspace, to burrow and rest on.

You should position your enclosure somewhere quiet, away from household ‘traffic’ and noise. You should not place it in draughts, next to radiators or in direct sunlight.

Heating and light

Tarantulas do not require lighting however a small heat mat, either to cover half the tank at the bottom for terrestrial species or half of the side for arboreal species, is needed. A thermometer should be placed in the enclosure to make sure the temperature is correct for your species of spider.

Decor for your spider

Generally tarantulas require very little decor. It is generally easier to maintain the enclosure with less decor. Depending on the type of tarantula, you will require different set ups.

Food and water bowls

You will not need food bowls for your spider, however a water ‘bowl’ is essential. You should provide a small, fairly shallow dish or bowl made from either plastic or ceramic, you should avoid metal types as they can be harmful.Inside the bowl or dish moist cotton wool or ‘bug gel’ should be placed. This will help the spider to get extra moisture without the risk or drowning.

Substrate

You should check the individual requirements of each specie, but generally vermiculite, bark or other soft material, such as peat. Desert species shouldn’t be kept on sand as it can cause molting problems, instead you should ensure there is a covering of dry vermiculite.

Other Decor

Climbing (arboreal) spiders, such as the Pink Toe or Stripe Knee will appreciate small plastic plants, either attached to the side or roof of the tank or stood securely in the tank.

Terrestrial species, such as the Chilean rose, will appreciate cork bark, resin hides or even bark hides to take refuge in. Some species, such as the Mexican red knee will like to occasionally burrow. You can partly bury plastic hamster ‘tubes’ in the substrate to recreate a solid burrow that won’t collapse.

Any other decor, such as stones, plants or ornaments should be cleaned with hot water and inspected for sharp or dangerous edges. They are not needed and will be purely for the ‘look’ of the enclosure, making it a little more natural.

Moulting in spiders

Spiders grow by shedding their exoskeleton. This is a delicate process in which the spider is most vulnerable. During this process the spider will create a large amount of silk on the floor or other stable surface. When he is ready to moult he will lay on his back with legs tucked in.

It is really important not to disturb the spider during this time as their outer skin, the exoskeleton, is literally coming off and any disruption can seriously damage the soft underlying skin, being potentially fatal to your pet.

The length of a moult can vary between species. The preparation can be a week or so to a few days although the actual ‘shedding’ process is usually around several hours. You will know when it is over as a ‘skeletal’ spider will be left and your pet will most likely retreat to safety.

It is important to gently mist the enclosure during this time, not soaking it but not allowing it to become ‘arid’. You also need to be careful not to directly spray your pet! Food items should be removed from the cage and the water dish should be moist.

You should remove the moult, either disposing of it where other pets or children won’t get hold of it or safely keeping it as a record of growth. If you choose to do this you should put it in a bag or container, again away from children and pets.

Feeding your tarantula

Spiders in the wild eat a great range of foods, depending on the species they will eat insects right up to lizards and small birds. Luckily most pet tarantulas, certainly those for beginners, are well suited to a diet of insects.

When purchasing your spider you should ask about what it is usually fed on, yes they do sometimes have a preference! It will also give you an indication of how large the prey items should be. As a general rule the item should not be bigger than it’s thorax ( the part before the abdomen, where the legs are situated).

When feeding your spider there are several types of food to try. Most common is crickets. Brown crickets are softer and more suited to younger spiders although adults will enjoy them along with the larger, tougher, black crickets (also refereed to as ‘field crickets’.)

You can also give meal worms and morios although they tend to burrow and can be a nuisance to your spider if uneaten. Some people like to feed roaches, small locusts and the occasional wax worm, but this should be as a very occasional treat.

It is best to research what your species would naturally eat and with the advice of the supplier, use good sense to form a nutritious diet for your pet. You can also use gut loading supplements to enhance the diet.

Spiders will eat only a little. You shouldn’t feed daily, one or two items a week is more than enough. This should be altered depending on the size of the item taken. Younger spiders will require slightly more, perhaps 2-4 small items a week.

Any uneaten food items should be removed before the end of the day as they can annoy and cause damage to your pet. Spiders will sometimes refuse food especially before a moult. Because of the vulnerability during this time, even a cricket could kill your spider, so you must remove uneaten food!

Problems with spiders

Spiders rarely get any health issues, however there are a few that can cause problems and must be dealt with.

Mites

This is caused by too moist conditions, in which mites will multiply rapidly. If left untreated they will clog the mouth and ‘book lungs’ (the ‘nostrils’ on the side of the thorax) causing death. Signs of mites include the spider seeming reluctant to move, perhaps submerging himself in the water dish or curling up with legs underneath. To confirm mites, check in the night, when lights have been off, with a bright torch. If you see specks crawling on the tank walls, decor, substrate or spider, it has mites.

To deal with it you must move the spider to a different container while the substrate and decor is removed from the original. You should soak the decor in hot water and rinse the tank with a bleach solution. Be extremely careful to thoroughly rinse the tank out, if you can still smell bleach after it has dried, rinse again! You can then place new substrate and replace the decor along with your pet. If the problem persists you should seek a vets advice.

http://www.allpet.co.uk http://petandreptile.blogspot.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gordon_Bloomfield

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